4. Manufactured Clothing Specifications

4.1 Seam finishing

4.1.1

 

4.1.2

4.1.3

4.1.4

4.1.5

4.1.6

In case of unlined clothing articles of woven or loosely knitted qualities, all seams, pockets and trimmings must be overlocked.

All seams not ironed open must be finished by means of safety stitching or backstitching.

Pinking is not permitted.

All edges of the fabric must be finished. The finishing stitch density must be adequate to prevent fraying.

All seams, pockets and trimmings must be overlocked.

Loose threads must be trimmed.

4.2 Seam construction

4.2.1

4.2.2

4.2.3

 

4.2.4

4.2.5

4.2.6

4.2.7

4.2.8

4.2.9

4.2.10

4.2.11

4.2.12

4.2.13

4.2.14

4.2.15

4.2.16

All seams must be 1 cm wide, unless otherwise required.

Seam width when safety-stitched is 7 mm.

The stitch setting for woven qualities must be at least 5 stitches per cm, and for knittedqualities 6 stitches per cm. This applies to all construction seams.

The seam strength must comply with the stretch and weight of the fabric.

In case of topstitching, the stitch density must be at least 3 stitches per cm.

Pulling and slanting seams and stitches must not occur.

Select the correct sewing machine settings and needles to prevent damaging of the fabric.

Loose threads or poorly finished stitching must not occur.

Seams and stitches must be fixed at the edges.

Darts and dart seams must run smoothly.

If seams are to come in contact with the skin, they must have a soft finish.

Tordering is not allowed in case of piping.

Part seams must always run on, even if they are broken.

Tunnels must be sewn to allow for easy feeding of the cord.

Trimmings must be fixed.

Trouser turn ups must be attached to the side seams.

4.3 Hems

4.3.1

4.3.2

4.3.3

4.3.4

4.3.5

4.3.6

4.3.7

4.3.8

Hems must be strong and free from stitch marks.

Hems must be straight.

Glued hems are not allowed.

Topstitching to max. 1.5 cm, unless otherwise specified.

When blind hemming, stitches must not be visible on the surface of the fabric.

The hem must not pull.

Hemming on centre rear seams, side seams and part seams of coats and jackets must be secured.

Sleeve hems must be fixed onto the sleeve seam(s).

4.4 Sleeves

4.4.1

4.4.2

4.4.3

4.4.4

4.4.5

4.4.6

4.4.7

4.4.8

Sleeves must be smoothly sewn into the item.

In case of one-piece sleeves, the sleeve seam must match the side seam.

No interchanging of left and right sleeves.

The underarm seam must not be too long or too short.

Cuffs must be straight and symmetrical.

Left and right sleeve slits must be of equal length.

Shoulder pads must be secured to the shoulder seam at two points.

The colour of the shoulder pads must not be visible through the garment.

4.5 Pleats / folds / slits

4.5.1

4.5.2

4.5.3

4.5.4

Pleats / folds / slits must be straight and tightly pressed, unless otherwise required.

All slits and pleats must be stitched accurately to prevent coming off.

Slits must overlap sufficiently without opening up.

Slits must be strengthened on the outside with securing stitches that cannot be seen on the fabric surface.

4.6 Fastening

4.6.1

 

4.6.2

 

4.6.3

 

 

 

 

4.6.4

 

4.6.4.1

 

4.6.5

4.6.6

4.6.7

4.6.8

4.6.9

The stitch density of buttonholes must fully cover the edges and the button must pass through the buttonhole without stretching or breaking the stitching.

Buttons must be securely attached. In case of button fastenings, overlaps must be sufficiently wide and the distance between each button must be sufficiently large to prevent an opening.

Zip fastenings must have the correct quality, length, number and colour and comply with Wehkamp BV standards, YKK, YKK Vislon, YKK Zaglan, CMZ, Opti, Prym, Albert Zips (Gavotex). Correct length must be used in accordance with size and model. Zip fastenings must be smooth and flawless, with top and end stops. Zips must be sewn to allow for smooth and free running of the slider between the fabric and / or lining. When sewing a zip in a slit, the inside edge of the zip may be max. 2.5 cm.

All fasteners, press-studs, and decorative fastenings, including rings, buckles, zip fastenings, eyelets and Velcro must strongly fastened to the fabric. They must not have sharp edges and must work properly.

The overlaps of fastenings and the distance between each point of fastening must ensure closure of the fastening.

Inside buttons must be used in case of two-row fastenings, or if the garment model requires so.

Buttons of ladies’ garments from size 48 upwards must always have a button at bust height.

Counter-buttons must be used for fabrics of a loose or open quality.

Pin-buttons must be used for bulky fabrics.

Hooks and eyes must be fastened properly and be strengthened.

4.7 Buttons and accessories

4.7.1

 

4.7.2

 

4.7.3

4.7.4

4.7.5

4.7.6

Buttons and accessories must be colourfast, securely attached and comply with the maintenance instructions stated on the label.

Metal buttons, snaps and accessories must be of stainless steel. They must not damage the fabric. They must be attached through at least 2 layers of fabric + interlining.

It is required to add a spare button, this must be attached to the label in the side seam.

Cords must be colourfast and must not shrink.

Buttons and accessories must not have any sharp edges.

The colour of buttons and accessories must match the outer material, unless otherwise specified.

4.8 Pockets

4.8.1

4.8.2

4.8.3

4.8.4

4.8.5

4.8.6

4.8.7

4.8.8

Pocket trimmings must be finished to prevent fraying.

The stitching of stitched-on pockets must run at least 2 mm from the edges.

The depth and opening of the pocket must meet the purpose for which it is intended.

The corners of all pocket openings must be fastened securely (for example by a bartack or rivet).

The pockets must be symmetrical and located symmetrically.

Piping pockets, patch pockets and stitched-on pockets must be closed with a loose stitch without being fastened.

The pockets must be at the correct height.

Lining and shell must have matching colours.

4.9 Waistbands

4.9.1

 

4.9.2

Elastic waistbands must permanently have sufficient elasticity and shape recovering qualities. In stretched condition, elastic waistbands must measure hip size.

The button must be located in the centre front, unless specified otherwise

4.10 Collars

4.10.1

4.10.2

4.10.3

 

4.10.4

4.10.5

Collars must be symmetrical.

The lower collar must not be visible below the upper collar. The collar must cover the neck seam.

Jersey roll necks and wristbands must stretch enough to allow for the easy passing of head and hand/foot. They must return to their original shape afterwards.

Collars, bands and cuffs must be attached smoothly. Add rib more or less stretched during sewing.

Add elastane in rib.

4.11 Interlining

4.11.1

4.11.2

4.11.3

The colour of the interlining must match the colour of the outer material.

Facings must be fitted with interlining.

The materials used must match the outer material and must comply with the product maintenance instructions. Filling must be carefully glued and finished.

4.12 Lining

4.12.1

4.12.2

4.12.3

 

4.12.4

4.12.5

4.12.6

The lining must not be visible at slits and zips and must be reinforced at the end stop.

The colour of the lining must match the colour of the outer material. Unless otherwise specified.

Lining seams must be overlocked. If no safety stitch is used, the seam width must be at least 10 mm. The stitch setting must be at least 4 st/cm.

Free lining must be 2 cm shorter than the outer material.

Lining stitched to the outer material, must be 2 cm longer than the outer material.

In case of blazers, the lining must be attached to the inside of the sleeve head.

4.13 Belts / waistbands

4.13.1

 

4.13.2

Belt / waistband loops must be fastened securely. Some additional width is required to enable proper feeding of the belt through the loops.

The belt size must comply as specified in measurement chart.

4.14 Yarn

4.14.1

4.14.2

4.14.3

4.14.4

The yarn must match the qualities of the fabric and the lining and must be colourfast.

Monofilaments must not be used.

The yarns must not fluff.

The colour must match the outer material, unless specified otherwise.

4.15 Elastic cords

4.15.1

4.15.2

4.15.3

 

4.15.4

Elastic cords must not squeeze and must retain their elasticity in normal and frequent use and washing.

Elastic cords that come into contact with the skin must be wound to prevent skin irritation.

The length of the elastic cord must be adequate to enable putting on the article of clothing easily over head or hip while ensuring a good fit at the same time.

The ends of elastic cords must be fastened well to prevent fraying and flapping.

4.16 Labels

4.16.1

4.16.2

4.16.3

4.16.4

All labels and tags must comply with the Wehkamp BV labelling specifications.

All labels and tags must be correctly attached in the location indicated, in accordance with the prescribed methods.

The labels and/or tags must not pull.

The items must not contain any manufacturer’s labels or stickers, unless otherwise agreed.

4.17 Special details

4.17.1

 

4.17.2

4.17.3

 

4.17.4

4.17.5

 

4.17.6

 

4.17.7

4.17.8

4.17.9

4.17.10

4.17.11

4.17.12

4.17.13

All fabrics and accessories must match each other in terms of quality and comply with the maintenance instructions stated on the label.

Fabrics with a pile, corduroy or velvet laying and cutting against the grain.

All items must be carefully ironed or pressed. Pressing stains or shiny spots are not permitted.

If no pressing or steaming only on request.

In stretched condition, elastic waistbands and smocking must at least measure hip size.

All decorative stitching, heavy threads etc. must be carefully fixed to the side seams or tied up on the inside of the item without damaging the fabric.

Fabrics with specific motives, such as checks and stripes, must be processed in such a way that the motive continues on the front, side and rear centre seams.

Fabrics in and surrounding embroidery must be smooth and not show any irregularities.

Appliqués, emblems, badges etc. must be securely fastened and must not shrink.

The items of clothing must not give off sour, oil-like or unusual smells.

All parts of an item must straight-threaded.

Collars must be exactly symmetrical.

The loop must be securely attached to the centre of the collar.

The shoulder seams of knitted fabrics must be strengthened by stitching piping in the seam.