5. Manufactured Clothing Specifications
5.1.1
5.1.2
5.1.3
5.1.4
Fabric with faults such as holes, knots, broken or missing threads and stains must not be used in production of the garments.
Shrinkage must be calculated for each fabric and are to be adjusted accordingly to allow the size specification to be followed in production.
In cutting the maximum number of layers must be adjusted to fabric type and the layers must be held in place during cutting.
Fabrics with a pile, corduroy or velvet laying and cutting against the grain.
5.2.1
5.2.2
5.2.3
5.2.4
5.2.5
5.2.6
5.2.7
5.2.8
5.2.9
5.2.10
5.2.11
5.2.12
5.2.13
5.2.14
5.2.15
5.2.16
Seam allowance must be made matching to fabric and product type. Standard width is 1 cm.
Seam allowance width for safety stitching seams is 7 mm.
Stitch length for construction seams must be 5 stitches per cm for woven qualities and 6 stitches per cm for knitted qualities.
In case of topstitching, the stitch density must be minimum 3 stitches per cm. Standard density is 6 stitches per cm.
Two-needle stitching must have a distance of 0.3 cm unless requested otherwise.
Seams strength must comply with stretch and weight of the fabric and seam type.
Seams must be made straight and seam ends must be secured.
Use correct yarn tension and avoid pulling of the fabric to prevent the fabric from puckering before and after washing of the garment.
Select the correct sewing machine settings and needles.
Take care of timely maintenance and replacement of needles to prevent damaged fabric.
Ensure panels measurements are matching to allow the seams to be stitched without putting excess tension on the fabric.
Jersey fabrics may not be pulled in stitching to avoid wavy seams and puckering.
Darts and dart seams must run smoothly and the shape must be curved to ensure correct fit.
Piping must be attached straight. Puckering and torsion are not allowed.
All seams and edges must be finished unless requested otherwise. The finishing stitch density must be adequate to prevent fraying.
All seams and edges must be cleared of loose yarns and threads.
5.3.1
5.3.2
5.3.3
5.3.4
5.3.5
5.3.6
5.3.7
5.3.8
5.3.9
5.3.10
5.3.11
Hems stitching must be firm and free from stitching marks.
Hems must be straight. In case of a curved hemline the shape must be even and smooth.
Topstitching height in hems is placed at 1.5 cm from edge, unless otherwise specified.
Blind stitches need to be regular and thread tension needs to be constant. No tension or stitches must be visible on the surface of the fabric.
Hems must not pull or twist after stitching and finishing.
Glued hems are not allowed.
In coats and jackets the hem must be fixed at CB seam, side seams and other types of vertical seams.
Add elastane or nylon in rib hems and sleeve openings.
Sleeve hems must be fixed at the sleeve seam(s).
In jersey sleeves, avoid lockstitch ends of underarm seam to be visible in sleeve opening.
Cuffs must be straight and symmetrical.
5.4.1
5.4.2
5.4.3
5.4.4
5.4.5
Sleeves must be smoothly sewn into the item.
In case of one-piece sleeves, the sleeve seam must line out with side seam.
Left and right sleeve slits must be of equal length.
Shoulder pads must be secured to the shoulder seam at two points.
The colour of the shoulder pads must not be visible through the garment.
5.5.1
5.5.2
5.5.3
Pleats/folds/slits must be made straight and be pressed in finishing, unless otherwise required.
All slits and pleats must be stitched accurately without tension or pulling of the fabric.
Slit at side seam or CB seam must be secured at the top by a small bartack to avoid the seam from tearing open.
5.6.1
5.6.2
5.6.3
5.6.4
5.6.5
5.6.6
5.6.7
5.6.8
5.6.9
5.6.10
5.6.11
5.6.12
5.6.13
5.6.14
5.6.15
5.6.16
5.6.17
5.6.18
The stitch density of buttonholes must fully cover the edges and the button must pass through the buttonhole without stretching or breaking the stitching.
Buttons must be firmly attached with backstitching or properly secured chain stitching.
Buttons distance at placket is 8 cm for size 38 unless requested otherwise in style sketch.
Buttons must be divided evenly and buttonholes position must be matched to buttons.
Buttonholes size must match the button size correctly.
Zippers of the following brands are accepted: YKK, YKK Vislon, YKK Zaglan, TIT, SAB, SBS, YBS, CMZ, Opti, Albert Zips (Gavotex). Brandless zippers are not allowed.
Zippers must have the correct length and size, fitting for the size and type of garment.
Zipper must be attached without tension on zipper or fabric to avoid puckering of the fabric.
Zip fastenings must run smooth and flawless, with top and end stops.
Zipper attachment must allow smooth and free running of the slider between fabrics.
If a cut and sew seam is interrupted by a zipper, both sides must come out matching at the same height after the zipper is attached.
All fasteners, press-studs, and decorative fastenings, including rings, buckles, zip fastenings, eyelets and Velcro must be strongly attached to the fabric. They must not have sharp edges and must work properly.
Overlaps of fastenings must be sufficiently wide to avoid the lower placket to be visible.
Inside buttons must be used in case of two-row fastenings, or if styling otherwise requires it.
Women’s garments with front button closure must have a button positioned at bust height.
Counter-buttons must be used for fabrics of a loose or open quality.
Pin-buttons must be used for bulky fabrics.
Hooks and eyes must be attached properly.
5.7.1
5.7.2
5.7.3
5.7.4
5.7.5
5.7.6
Buttons and accessories must be colourfast and comply with the maintenance instructions stated on the wash & care label.
Metal buttons, snaps and accessories must be of stainless steel. They must not damage the fabric. They must be attached through at least 2 layers of fabric + interlining.
It is required to add a spare button, this must be attached to the label in the side seam.
Cords must be colourfast and must not shrink.
Buttons and accessories must not have any sharp edges.
In skirts and pants with button closure button and buttonhole should be placed at centre front unless specified otherwise.
5.8.1
5.8.2
5.8.3
5.8.4
5.8.5
Seams and edges of shell fabric or pocketing fabric must be finished to prevent fraying.
The stitching of stitched-on pockets must run at least 2 mm from the edges.
The corners of all pocket openings must be fixed securely (for example by a bartack or rivet). This applies to stitched-on pockets and side seam pockets both.
In case of multiple pockets, these must be symmetrical in size and positioning.
Pockets must be attached flat on the garment without excess width or tension.
5.9.1
5.9.2
5.9.3
5.9.4
5.9.5
5.9.6
Collars must be made symmetrical in size and colour.
In ironing and packing must be ensured that the upper collar is folded correctly and covers the lower collar/collar stand and neck seam.
Jersey roll necks and wristbands must stretch enough to allow for the easy passing of head and hand/foot. They must return to their original shape afterwards.
Collars, bands and cuffs must be attached clean and without puckering.
Rib and jersey bindings must be attached with slight tension to avoid loose fit or puckering.
Add elastane or nylon in rib collars.
5.10.1
5.10.2
5.10.3
5.10.4
Colour of the interlining must be close to match the colour of the outer material.
Facings must be fitted with interlining.
Ensure interlining properties are matching to the outer material and comply with the product maintenance instructions.
Filling must be carefully glued and finished.
5.11.1
5.11.2
5.11.3
5.11.4
5.11.5
5.11.6
5.11.7
Lining may not be visible at slits and zips and must be reinforced at the end stop.
Lining/pocketing colour must match the colour of the outer material unless otherwise specified.
Lining seams must be overlocked. If no safety stitch is used, the seam width must be at least 1 cm. The stitch length must be at least 6 stitches per cm.
Free lining must be 2 cm shorter than the outer material at hem.
Lining stitched to the outer material at hem must be 6 cm longer than the outer material.
Lining in coats must have a box pleat of minimum 6 cm width (= 8 cm extra fabric) placed at top CB in back panel.
In coats and blazers the lining must be fixed at the inside of the sleeve head.
5.12.1
5.12.2
5.12.3
Belt / waistband loops must be fastened securely.
When at loop covers a waistband, make bottom part of belt loop attached to the waistband seam.
Yarn loops must be made of a thick yarn and attached firmly at 1 point in side seams.
5.13.1
5.13.2
5.13.3
5.13.4
5.13.5
The stitching yarn must match the properties of the fabric and lining and must be colourfast.
Monofilaments must not be used.
The yarns must be smooth and straight without knots and loose fibres to avoid broken seams.
The colour must be matching to the main colour of outer material, unless specified otherwise.
In garment dye styles, the stitching yarn must be ready to dye.
5.14.1
5.14.2
5.14.3
5.14.4
5.14.5
Elastic used in production must have sufficient elasticity and shape recovering qualities and remain so during wash and wear.
Elastic band or cord must have soft handfeel and not be excessively firm or hard.
Elastic cords that come into contact with the skin must be soft to prevent skin irritation.
The ends of elastic cords must be fastened well to prevent fraying or coming loose.
Elastic at neckline or waist must be fixed at shoulder points or side seams to avoid twisting.
5.15.1
5.15.2
5.15.3
All labels and tags, attachment and location must comply with the Wehkamp BV labelling specifications as described in the quality manual chapter 3.1.
The labels and/or tags must not pull at the outer material.
Avoid stitching to be visible at outside when possible or if it will be visible stitching must be neat and yarn must be tonal to the outer material.
5.16.1
5.16.2
5.16.3
5.16.4
All items must be carefully ironed or pressed unless requested otherwise. Avoid heavy pressing at the seams; pressing stains or shiny spots are not permitted.
Loose threads and uncut yarns must be removed.
Marker lines must be removed.
After finishing the garment may not contain any manufacturer’s labels or stickers.
5.17.1
5.17.2
5.17.3
5.17.4
5.17.5
5.17.6
5.17.7
5.17.8
5.17.9
5.17.10
5.17.11
All fabrics, yarns, trimmings and accessories must be matching in terms of quality and comply with the maintenance instructions stated on the wash and care label.
All decorative stitching, heavy threads etc. must be carefully fixed to the side seams or tied up on the inside of the garment without damaging the fabric.
Fabrics with specific motives, such as checks and stripes, must be made with matching seams, the motive continues on the front, side and rear centre seams.
Fabrics in and surrounding embroidery must be smooth and not show puckering or damage.
Appliqués, emblems, badges etc. must be securely attached and must not shrink.
Garments may not give off sour, oil-like or other unpleasant smells.
All panels of a garment must be cut on grain unless requested otherwise.
In coats and jackets the hanger loop must be securely attached to the centre of the collar.
The shoulder seams of knitted and jersey fabrics must be strengthened by stitching silicone tape in the seam.
Garment dye colours need to be checked for colour fastness for each colour and quality.
Garments with dye stains or white spots after garment dye are not allowed.
5.18.1
5.18.2
5.18.3
5.18.4
5.18.5
5.18.6
5.18.7
5.18.8
5.18.9
5.18.10
For hygienic reasons all swimwear must be supplied with a removable protection sticker at crotch.
All seams must be stretchable and soft on the skin while wearing.
The crotch area of swimsuits and briefs must always be lined with lining fabric.
Soft cups that are used must be soft and flexible and comfortable to wear. They must be resistant to be used in water, sea water and chlorinated water, like all fabrics and accessories.
All accessories should not get too hot in the sun while wearing.
All wires, wire casings and accessories should not be sharp and must not feel unpleasant while wearing.
The cups must be filled with paper wads in the packaging to keep the cups in shape during transport.
The brand and care labels must be soft and they should not have hard edges that irritate the skin while wearing.
All adjustable straps must be adjusted to the specified sizes mentioned in the size specification during production.
Detachable straps and sliders should stay in place when worn. They must not go loose or shift.